Central Saint Martins - last shows in historic building on Charing Cross Road

The queue of people became longer and longer moving way past Foyles book shop next door

This is the invitation sent out to friends and family and alumni of Central Saint Martins for the BA Fashion & Fine art, Graduate Diploma in Fashion, Post Graduate Professional Studies in Art & design : Photography

The expectant atmosphere outside the historic Central Saint Martins building was not dissimilar to that at London Fashion Week. There were those of us who queued patiently in line with our priority invites and then as the doors were opened by three black suited men a surge of queue jumpers tried to push in at the front - not unlike trying to get on the tube in the rush hour! As I entered the hallowed building I looked to my left and saw another long queue had formed. Well after all this is St Martins the most famous Art College in the world. This status was reflected in the mix of nationalities I saw exhibiting as well as viewing the work. 
I felt a pang of nostalgia as I walked past Louise Wilson's office and saw her chatting to one of her students. The likes of Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Antonio Berardi, Matthew Williamson, John Galliano have worked on their MA fashion projects in these rooms.  This wonderful old building full of creative fervour will soon be handed over to developers making way for the much anticipated move to new State of the Art premises next door to St Pancras train station. It is the passing of an era, and will be the beginning of a new one. I can only compare it to the reluctance felt by the UK insurance hive Lloyds of London another historic and successful institution that relinquished it's old heritage building steeped in history to move to the Richard Rogers 'boiler house' in Leadenhall St. They haven't looked back and I am sure nor will St Martins. All the same I am glad I went to the last show in Charing Cross road and I will do so in Southampton Row where I teach and am making the most of the last few months before we have to move out. Here are some images of my room and the great views. 
http://schelay.blogspot.com/2010/03/class-of-jan-march-2010-art-direction.html


The shows are open to members of the public 17 - 23 June - 12 -8 pm ( 6pm on 23rd June, closed Sun 19 June)
The MA fashion show will take place during london Fashion Week in September. 


If you go check out Pelayo Diaz's hand bags and Daniella Klingfluss 's work - I liked the way some of the students used ipads for showing their work. 

Poppy Delevigne in Belstaff biker Jacket and floral dress - a good festival look

Poppy looking great in this Belstaff black leather bikers jacket and pretty chiffon floral summer dress 

I like this look worn with a full floral dress skirt 

I prefer the fuller skirt but this looks good too

The Burberry version of a Belstaff!!

Belstaff classic bikers jacket £ 559.00

The back leather jacket has become a cool staple wardrobe item for this Summer. Burberry have an excellent one using the same styling features as an authentic bikers jackets designed for toughness and practical protection.  When one considers the variability of the British weather at the moment as well as the fact that Winter woolies come Autumn can substitute the pretty florals that have become deriguer to wear with it this Summer it is a good choice investment item too. The fact is they look good with everything! When will Vogue do an editorial shoot on the styling merits of the black leather jacket! with jeans, pencil skirts, rar rar skirts with jumpsuits, with a sequined dress ( that would look fab) and with Erdem florals - and so chic with the other Summer trend for bright colour block jeans! Where can I get some red ones ?

It was announced yesterday that the British maker of biker gear Belstaff sported by icons such as Lawrence of Arabia to Steve McQueen, will step up it's stake in the global luxury market after inviting Tommy Hilfiger as a consultant.

The appointment comes days after the business was bought by Labelux, the international luxury goods group which also bought Jimmy Choo last month. Hilfiger is an investor in Labelux, will serve on the board and is it reported likely to oversee the brands growth in the Far East.

Labelux is looking to tap a world market worth 150 billion last year. Belstaff whose jackets cost around £600.00 began life in Stoke on Trent in 1924 developing the waxed cotton clothing worn widely by bikers as opposed to the waxed Barbour jacket which is also popular in the hunting shooting and fishing set and is also now a fashion item of cache globally.

Allegra Versace - officially joining the family firm

Allegra looking well recently, showing the potentially healthy version of her we all hope will stay

It was announced in the Sunday Times today in an article by John Follain that Allegra Versace aged 24 who has battled anorexia and the heart break of tragically losing her beloved Uncle Gianni in 1997 will now be joining the family firm. She was left a 50% stake of the Versace brand by her Uncle in his will. This puts her in a very powerful position which up until now has been perceived as a burden to her. Her mother Donatella Versace controls 20% of the famous brand. Allegra found out about her Uncles murder watching a TV news bulletin when she was 11. At the time it sent shock waves through the world fashion community not dissimilar in impact to the unexpected suicide of Alexander McQueen. She recently told La Reppublica the Rome newspaper that " I lived in darkness for years I couldn’t remember anything of my life before that terrible day” Up to this time she had led a charmed and happy life where her Uncle had dotted on her and indulged her every whim. 

Allegra looking far too thin here with a companion last year who looks remarkably like her late Uncle Gianni

I have posted the better images I could find, many are not great as she is too thin, - her arms like match sticks - no light in her eyes at all.This is the terrible aspect of Anorexia - as it is a slow voluntary suicide unless treated and cured. Allegra was at St Martins college of Art in the same year as Christopher Kane whom her mother mentored and has been trying to woo over to working full time at the label ever since by allowing him to design small capsule collections. The rumour is that Kane will be taken on as Creative Director working with Allegra inorder to move the brand towards a modern classic Versace style, still sexy but less wagish. Giusi Fere, a friend of late Gianni said ' I think Allegra will try to give Versace a more modern style, she is less bling bling than her mother. Versace has become a bit outdated - the clothes are often aggressive and revealing. that's a bit 1980s' One just has to see the gorgeous dresses Allegra has been sporting to see what the brand has in mind. What the Sunday Times didn't mention is that Allegra was too ill when at St Martins to finish her fashion design MA with Louise Wilson. She has now started working in the design studio at Versace where she apparently is anxious not to be seen as above the other young designers there. She has also started paid work experience as a design assistant to an unnamed non Italian designer helping him with catwalk shows, advertising campaigns and designs.

Allegra ( still too thin) in an exquisite little black Versace dress last year

I wish her well in her new official role at Versace – let us hope that she can help turn the ailing fashion house’s fortunes round. This year 350 staff were laid off, about a quarter of the work force in order to get back in the black. The Versace brand epitomizes the Italian love of opulence and show – the trend now is for the more discreet and cerebral currently led by the likes of Marc Jacobs and Prada where art, intellect and fashion combine  – Working with Christopher Kane Allegra’s youth and fortitude in adversity as well her fashion pedigree will give her just the right outlook and open mindedness for the job. 

Will Chinese shoppers target the Preppy Market ? -

Lilly Pulziter dresses on 'yummy mummy' wasps photographed at Palm Beach 1965

Jackie Kennedy was the Queen of 'waspdom', even though she was Catholic -
Wasp stands for White Anglo Saxon Protestant !
This term seems very outdated now as social mobility has changed.
Americans use the term 'preppy' or 'old money' now to define this group.  

The preppy 'wasp' image from the late 1950 early 60s in America is all about privilege, Gwyneth Paltrow and Jude Law in the film The Talented Mr Ripley play characters from this American Old Money lifestyle.

This is a fashion shoot for British Vogue by Tom Craig 

called A place in the sun, depicting understated preppy ease. 

This wonderful image from the same shoot reflects the easy aspirational privileged  lifestyle that sells fashion so well - take note at how understated it is - no bright colours or bold stripes in the clothes!

The obligatory horse, an accessory used extensively over the years by Ralph Lauren in his marketing campaigns. 

Cache brand for teenagers Abercrombe and Fitch - preppy and sporty aspirational  with the model a Kate Middleton look alike!

Image from Abercrombie and Fitch website

Check out the Jack Wills brand photography campaign there are similar steamy images

Here we have a Ralph Lauren collection designed exclusively for Wimbledon Tennis Championships. 

Traditionally the preserve of the privileged Tennis is considered a preppy pursuit. Talent gives you an entry point into this privileged world as we have seen from the brilliant Williams sisters. Lauren is a higher price point than Hilfiger. The brand uses symbols of freedom and leisure such as sport (esp Polo and Rugby) cache cars and motor bikes now and depicts a carefree glamourous lifestyle reminiscent of the 1920s and those characters depicted in the Great Gatsby in a contemporary setting and lifestyle.

Tommy Hilfiger a more accessible price point than Ralph Lauren very successfully uses the Preppy aspirational lifestyle references in his marketing campaigns, these are: family, horses, swimming pools, leisure time - symbols of success  representative of a privileged tribe of people, the access point is money and it transcends nationality as it is all about privilege earned from hard work whatever your background Stateside, where even the likes of Puff Daddy has adopted the Country Club look. It has become an old money look for new money. Is it a coincidence that the model in the jacket has a Kate Middleton similarity?

The Brits take on the preppy - a mix of new and old styles - vintage and retro chic

Classic preppy brands are Boden, Jack Wills, Aubin and Wills, Hackett, Crewe clothing and Joules -

This is a photo from the Boden catalogue - very waspish, compare with the 1960s image at the top of this post and see what I mean !

An aspirational image of a yummy mummy with children on holiday in Cornwall probably in fashionable Rock and Padstowe, Salcombe, or Sand Banks on the UK coast. This image has all the wasp/Preppy credentials of easy going holidays in the Hamptons.  

Here below we have the 'Almanac' photography brand campaign for Jack Wills - tapping into the heritage references and privilege associated with the uniforms of the British Private and Public school / Red Brick Uni system, it is selling a style that gives you an entry point into a perceived exclusive privileged club. Jack Wills has been particularly successful at tapping into this market.  

Kate Middleton and her set are the archetypal privileged UK Wasp / Preppy tribe leaders that the brands want people to 'want to be' and aspire to emulate by buying into their image and look. 

Kate with horse and Range Rover at Cartier Polo match

The style is simple and classic and easy to wear making it very commercial.

I really like the Aubin and Wills brand photography - it is the grown up older sibling brand of Jack Wills. It is unshaven public school - unpretentious and laid back with a Rock and Roll element, this could be Jarvis Cocker from Pulp or Alex James of Blur.
It has a classless cool much like the preppy chic in the USA now, the difference is in the States the look is Matt Damon clean shaven  - 

love the styling references here - 

 Check out those shoes! laid back cool British style -

According to Toby Young membership of this elite American club is less exclusive than it sounds, having spent time researching what it means to be part of the Wasp set he maintains that it has nothing to do with good breeding - or being white, Anglo Saxon or protestant today. He has always been mystified by their ostentatious dress code with it's garish stripes and checks. Why would a genuinely privileged class want to draw attention to itself in this way. Toby Young then goes onto say once you accept that WASPs have no more claim to nobility than Sir Casper Weinburger, their flamboyant plumage makes sense. The reason they want to dress so conspicuously is that they want to lay claim to membership of a privileged class not hide it! he says that the last time he went to Bridgehampton Polo in the Hamptons he noticed the spectators had swelled to include the latest additions to America's billionaires boys club: the hip hop entrepreneurs Russel Simmons, JayZ and P Diddy. In their immaculate linen suits and freshly laundered pink shirts., they were indistinguishable from the other so-called aristocrats. Here was proof he says, if any that you don't need inherited fortune to be a Wasp. 
Kate Middleton has proved that this is the same here in the UK with her marriage to Prince William. Though the UK class system is a little bit more complex, what it has done is adapt to reflect the times, you just have to see who was on the guest list to Kate and Williams wedding to see that!
To understand the aspirations of the masses is to understand how to market fashion and make money as can be evidenced by the fashion brands mentioned above.
The Chinese like Western brands and have a porchant like the Japanese for copying us extremely well....if the West rides out the economic down turn which inevitable will effect the boom in China we will see the emerging middle class Chinese adopt this look of privilege and ease. It is the younger emerging generation who have benefited from the economic revolution in China and unlike their parents like to spend rather than save.


By Schelay McCarter 2011

Ivana Basilotta's Fabulous Eco Chic Party at Home House

Ivana Basilotta looking relaxed and stylish in one of her designs

Corset dress - very flattering style - loved it!

This spangly top shimmered on the Catwalk

The stylish Bar in Home House Private Members club

Corset top and matching skirt - very chic

Goodie bags being handed out at the end of the show

What a wonderful party Ivana Basilotta's team organised for us to enjoy last night. 

The party was hosted in Home House a private members club in Portman Square in the heart of fashionable London. When we arrived the party was in full swing with guests enjoying head massages, and make up sessions in one room whilst a glamourous crowd of fashionist'a and journalists enjoyed a drink next door in the bar and stylish lounge. There was a real buzz in the air. We didn't have to wait long for the event to spring into action with a warm welcome speech by Sair Mir publisher of the Yoga Magazine praising Ivana Basilotta's eco and environmental fashion brand's ethos and attributes. With camera's flashing models dressed in the latest Winter collection called Mystery of Women sashayed elegantly on the Catwalk through the rooms of Home House, allowing the audience an exclusive and close up look at the demure and beautifully constructed bespangled gowns, classic jumpsuits, flattering corset dresses, tops and modern separates designed cleverly to suit any woman's shape.

How spoilt we felt when the models showered us with goodie bags packed with a thoughtful array of luxury and environmentally aware brands.

Those taking part in the event were Bellapierre cosmetics, the session school, Pukka, The Green Well, Terra Plana shoes and Madara ecocosmetics.

To see more of Ivana's brilliant collection look at her website http://www.ivanabasilotta.co.uk/mystery/

Photography Schelay McCarter

Lily Donaldson beats Lady Gaga in Dasha Zhirkova's photo shoot

Lily posing for Nick Knight in live streaming of a fashion photo shoot for Dasha Zhirkova's Garage magazine today. Dinos Chapman who collaberated with Nick Knight on this editorial fashion idea is an modern artist who is well known for his avant garde work with his brother Jake. Known as the Chapman Brothers, they mostly work together as a collaborative sibling duo. Their subject matter tends to concentrate on whatever is generally deemed to be appalling, vulgar, or offensive - makes for an interesting shoot reflecting the current cerebral influence of art on fashion. 

Lady Gaga in Mugler at the CDFA awards yesterday.

Lily Donaldson looks amazing in a similar doll like look as Lady Gaga complete with bright coloured wig in the Nick Knight and Dinos Chapman shoot called Agathe's House for Dasha Zhikova's new magazine (rumoured to be) called 'Garage' about fashion and art - out soon I hear, well once Mr Knight has done the shoot!

It is being live streamed on Show Studio as I write.http://showstudio.com/project/agathes_house