Tuesday, 23 May 2017

'Inside China' Fashion & Lifestyle Report May 2017 - Hong Kong

Two Hong Kong girls looking across to Hong Kong island from Kowloon.
Hong Kong as we know it today was born when China's Qing dynasty government was defeated in the First Opium War in 1842, when it ceded Hong Kong Island to Britain in the Treaty of Nanking signed on 29 August 1842.
Hong Kong was handed back to China by the British in 1997, ten years on lets take a look.

From its earliest days as a British colony, Hong Kong served as a centre of international trade. Under British rule Hong Kong used to be a boyant Asia link Financial Centre. It became clear to me on this recent visit to Hong Kong and China that Beijing has taken over that focus. 
We may well forget that the background history of Europe and China before Communism and the impact of the 2nd world war was based on drugs and trade! The Opium Wars were two wars in the mid-19th century involving Anglo-Chinese disputes over British trade in China and China's sovereignty. The disputes included the First Opium War (1839–1842) and the Second Opium War (1856–1860). The wars and events between them weakened the Qing dynasty and forced China to trade with the rest of the world.
We are now seeing a full circle return to collaberative trade partnership negociations with China's head  Xi Jinping hosting the Belt and Road forum last week in Beijing.

This initiative puts China at the forefront of anti protectionism in international trade. This will benefit China hugely with a 1.1371 Billion strong population, providing plentiful cheap, skilled labour to produce hard and soft goods and a canny 'can do' ambition. 

Beijing locals enjoy it when Chinese president Xi Jinping entertains international politial dignitories, the factories are closed for a few days, the municiple roads are spruced up to present the best impression, blue skies and low pollution creates a beautiful and seductive Beijing, full of promise and potential, not dissimilar to Tokyo. see my next post for a more in depth look at Beijing Style and fashion.

Last Monday Xi urged major multilateral institutions to join his new Belt and Road Initiative, stressing the importance of rejecting protectionism in seeking global economic growth. Addressing other world leaders at a summit on the initiative in Beijing, Xi said it was necessary to coordinate policies with the development goals of institutions including the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC), ASEAN, African Union and the European Union. Xi pledged $124 billion on Sunday for his new Silk Road which aims to bolster China's global leadership ambitions by expanding links between Asia, Africa, Europe and beyond, as U.S. President Donald Trump promotes "America First"."We need to improve policy coordination and reject beggar-thy-neighbor practices," Xi said on Monday."This is an important lesson that can be drawn from the global financial crisis and is still very relevant to the development of the world economy today," he said."We need to seek 
win-win results through greater openness and cooperation, avoid fragmentation, refrain from setting inhibitive thresholds for cooperation or pursuing exclusive arrangements and reject protectionism."

The women are modern and western in style, free to use social media in Hong Kong.
Sports trainers have over taken shoes in sales this year for the first time internationally
I predicted this in 2012 on fashiontent - see this link

An upwardly mobile Hong Kong Chinese family enjoying afternoon tea in the Penisular Hotel,
a British colonial hotel that has adapted with the times.

The buildings reflect the ambition of Hong Kong as part of China in the twenty first century.

Properous Chinese in Hong Kong enjoying the shopping and lifestyle.
Chinese millenials unlike their parents are fully engaged in consumerism, luxury western goods
reflect their success and status much like the 1980s in the West. 

Map of Hong Kong Island
Hong Kong Girls out shopping on Nathan Road styled in a mix of western clothes with cute traditional Chinese shoes
Xi Jinping refered also to the old Silk Route concept in his trade vision, this was an ancient network of trade routes that were for centuries central to cultural interaction originally through regions of Eurasia connecting the East and West and stretching from the Korean peninsula and Japan to the Mediterranean Sea.
This modern title derives its name from the lucrative trade in silk (and horses) carried out along its length, beginning during the Han dynasty (207 BCE – 220 CE). The Han dynasty expanded Central Asian sections of the trade routes around 114 BCE, largely through missions and explorations of the Chinese imperial envoy, Zhang Qian. The Chinese took great interest in the safety of their trade products and extended the Great Wall of China to ensure the protection of the trade route. Perhaps this is where Donald Trump got his wall building idea from? a direct swipe at China? China is enjoying it's economic success much like the Americans did in the 1950s boom times.

Copy and photography © Schelay McCarter

Wednesday, 3 May 2017

Story Telling - Burberry - the use of Body language in a narrative for stills and film

Please examine the shot sequence here from the top to last shot to see how the referenced simulated relationship between Edie Redmaine and Cara Delevigne develops. It is no accident ! this is a highly correographed shoot using coupling body language to make us believe it is real. Note the mirroring, spooning, confiding, flirting and commitment attachment messages.

Burberry 2012/13
Photographer Mario Testino
Art Director - Christopher Bailey

Copy / teaching material - Schelay McCarter ©

Thursday, 30 March 2017




This morning Caroline Rush CBE, CEO of the British Fashion Council and Professor Christopher Moore, Director of the British School of Fashion, Glasgow Caledonian University launched the British Fashion Council’s British High-End Manufacturers Database. The national database of UK-based manufacturers aims to make it easier for designers to form supply chain relationships and reach production units. The British High-End Manufacturers Database is the first milestone of 2017 for the BFC’s Positive Fashion initiative.
In March 2015 the BFC and a working group comprising of M&S, UKFT, Creative Skillset, The Alliance Project and Centre for Fashion Enterprise worked alongside independent specialists in the sector to launch the High-end and Designer Manufacturing Report. The need for a database of audited UK manufacturers was highlighted as a direct result of this report, for which research was undertaken by Glasgow Caledonian University and Oxford University.
The Database is free to use and will sit as part of the BFC Designer Fact File, a dynamic designer business learning platform providing insights and training across a wide spectrum of topics. The topics covered are tailored to a range of business stages, from start-ups to established brands, and content is provided by leading industry professionals. In stage 1, the initial manufacturers recommended for the British High-End Manufacturers Database were sourced through designer recommendations as well as through research done for the HEDM Report. Moving forward in stage 2, the BFC will conduct a full audit of all manufacturers listed and the database will grow organically as designers and BFC partners recommend further manufacturers, and as suppliers come forward to submit themselves for listing.
Throughout 2017 and beyond the BFC looks to celebrate Positive Fashion best practice in the industry by direct example and through facilitating processes for change. Through the Positive Fashion initiative the BFC hopes to encourage designer businesses to prioritise sustainability and ethical practices. The three key focuses for Positive Fashion in 2017 are Sustainability, Diversity & Industry Education (including model health) and Local Manufacturing and Craftsmanship.

The British Fashion Council would like to thank Positive Fashion lead partner (2013-2016) M&S for their commitment to the initiative and their passion for developing and celebrating best practice in our industry.

posted by Schelay for fashiontent 

Sunday, 19 March 2017

Student Work - Unlikely Pairings Part 2 - The Presentation

Here is Patricia Yzenga and Ali Estrada's fashion editorial Narrative presentation - they the girls have focused on a truly aspirational selection of professionals for their wish list team. 

Giving a choice of two photograoher and models from top london agencies this well conceived idea would be able to go live once availability of the team was confirmed and the magazines fashion editor had given a thumbs up.

© Alejanfra Estrada ( Spain ) & Patricia Yzenga ( Mexico City) 

Student Project Work - Shoot - Unlikely Pairings - LOVE magazine

This photoshoot for Love Magazine shot at the Barbican 2 weeks ago, was conceived over a 10 week evening class on my CSM Art Direction for Fashion short course.
I was really pleased with the proactive approach of Patricia Ynzenga and Alejandra Estradaboth working under a very tight deadline and dependant on the test shoot team volunteering their time. Using their own styling talents the girls worked to an organised and creative format to create their fashion editorial narrative. 
The girls sourced their team using the class facebook page ( art direction for fashion csm london) as well pulling together other contacts of theirs.
The aspirational wish list presentation the girls put together will be posted next here on fashiontent.

© Patricia Yzenga and Alejandra Estrada