Wednesday 26 September 2012

Jena Theo, London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 13 Collection







As I wind the staircase to the Portico room of Somerset House to see Jena Theo's Spring Summer 13 collection , I am unsure what to imagine of a collection entitled ‘Hell’s Angel’ and an Invitation card, I hold in my hand, tattooed with oriental inspiration and complemented with small gold insects scripted in gold.

Telling of ‘A woman living in close harmony with her environment. Alluding to Arthropoda – A large phylum of invertebrate animals that includes insects, spiders and crustaceans, architecture and their symbiosis’ and her relationship within as she. The Jena Theo woman, ‘respects and resounds to the world around her with the clothes she wears, the colours, textures, structures and the flow of energy are all a manifestation of her environment’.

This collection for Spring Summer 2013, regarded as their most innovative yet, pioneering new manipulation of techniques, prints and textures’ combines striking architectural silhouettes with the tattoo print and abstract work, hand rendered by artist O.Two.

Delicate Organza and spun silks are blended with latex and soft leather, mixed with exposed zippers and a structured bustier creating a rigid form amongst a sense of fluidity as the models walk, hypnotised upon stilts of a dark wooden wedge and leather cuffing, perfectly fitting to the music, which cry’s repetitively to me, ‘under your spell, you keep me under your spell, you keep me under your spell’. And it does.

Washed blacks, tangerines and citrus tones juxtapose nudes and neutrals, skirts, tulip in shape draped the model in Cowhide and a dress of black, with willowy strapping, channelling honeycomb pieces by way of shape and texture, referencing perfectly, the natural world whilst communicating a strong, modern aesthetic.

Hair ironed straight with a subtle backcomb, layers at the front falling, grazing cheekbones and the arms of sunglasses, caught around the ear of the model, their frames round in shape, with rims inverted, holding lenses polished and glittering as the flash of the cameras catch.

Hero pieces, and there are a few, include a beautifully glass beaded and sequin embellished cream, sleeveless dress, with a high neckline and of ankle length, any number of bustiers although in particular that which was white in detailing against near transparency and finally a long, angular cut, sleeved mini dress in a denim vintage wash, gradating darker as it nears the floor.

Copy and Photos by fashiontent's guest writer Rachel Anderson