Monday, 19 September 2016

London Fashion Week Day 1 Paul Costelloe SS16

Paul Costelloe's son Robert Costelloe, just back from 5 years working in China was here at
London Fashion Week for SS16. He has a Masters in Business planning and strategy so will be a real asset to the Costelloe brand. 

Paul Costelloe Collection 
Spring Summer 2017

With the lights lowered, the audience hushed and the music beginning, a spotlight hit the catwalk, Paul Costelloe’s white high collared dress stood bright and tall, lighting up the runway. It was a porcelain white linen dress, which was followed by a theme of white linen clothing in Costelloe’s Spring/Summer collection. His work was not just a combination of white themed clothing, he also presented bright metallic print dresses, pastel coloured chiffons and thick navy patterned dresses. Amongst long coats, shoulder pads and high collars, Costelloe uses a combination of ruffles, bishop sleeves, pleats, layered fabrics, bubble skirts and light and metallic linens, which gives the collection a diversity between each fabric and style, sewn with particular techniques.

Costelloe’s combines the use of traditional designs with contemporary fabrics which gives a new breadth to the Spring/Summer collection. He focuses on the use of light linens for the basis of his designs, by using a classic fabric for not just the its functionality but also its beauty. Focusing on the use of fabric in relation to the designs, the white linen, has dual purpose as it looks elegant and also naturally works well in warm weather, with the ability to breathe. Costelloes knowledge in fabric manufacturing adapts each fabric to his designs, for example, he uses the natural rigidity of linen to create a fitted navy blue dress, with a pleated skirt, with the knowledge that the pleats will hold their shape. Contrasting to the elegant white day wear, Costelloe also uses a metallic printed cotton for two dresses, as he gathers the fabric around the neck line and the skirt, which emphasises the vibrant colour differentiation with the natural light.

The techniques used in each design complements both plain and printed fabrics, for example, the use of pleats on the bodice of the white linen wear adds to the plainness of the fabric, to give both shape and detail whereas the ruffles on the front of the navy dresses is used as a feature, and gives an interesting angle to his collection. This collection jumps between the elegant and the bold, whether it is in the metallic printed dress, the navy dress with extravagant sheer puff sleeves or the white short dress with a plunge neckline.

Copy and Photos Clara Walton and Schelay for fashiontent © fashiontent

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