LFW A/W 13- 14 Day 2 Ashley Isham

Worthy of Burberry Ashley Isham's coats & jackets were the highlight of the collection for me !

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The Glamourous Freemasons hall in Covent Garden was the catwalk venue for this sophisticated collection

Ashley Isham 
Autumn Winter 2013 -14

The Freemason’s Hall was sizzling with anticipation as well as bursting at the seams with eager fashionisters hungry for their latest fashion fix in the form of the Ashley Isham Autumn Winter 13/14 Collection. I have been fortunate enough to be in a position to review his work objectively having seen Ashley’s work for the past 5 seasons.

This collection is without doubt his most sophisticated. He has developed a greater understanding of the Winter wardrobe needs of the Ashley Isham woman.

I loved the strong silhouette coats, jackets and capes inspired by a 1976 movie called “Logan's Run” and by the wonderfully thought provoking images of Helmut Newton. Helmut Newton was a German photographer whose images are provocative and erotically charged. This thread continued with the wonderful Isham signature drapery that has become epitomous with his work.

The collection has a sleek constructed quality that is glamorously futuristic for a woman who dares to be different with asymmetrical lines that have the deconstruct aspects of tailoring which is still precise. The pockets in skirts and dresses brings reality that reflects urban chic

The inspirational journey through Helmut Newton's erotically charged black and white photos translate to glamorous unconventional tailoring for daywear with hand embroidered epaulets that is body loving. There is an inky sheen to the luxurious wool that is modern yet feminine while drawing particular attention to the fifties couture silhouettes.

The stricking eveningwear is long, lean evening columns that surrendered to the translucence of porcelain under light to guarantee vigour and movement. The elaborate embroideries are so delicate that the beading appears almost invisible. It’s an ode to delicateness and luxury, this time rendered in tone on tone or silvery embroideries on lace and tulle of varying transparencies, hand crafted with a bespoke feel.

Ashley Isham uses exquisite materials such as; lace, guipure, lycra jersey, opulent velvet jersey, silk organza, silk chiffon, silk satin and cotton sateen.

Recognized for his signature draping and razor cut tailoring, Ashley Isham's distinctive blend of high-octane glamour and contemporary chic has won him an army of followers devoted to his vision and design philosophy.

Stocked at www.ashleyisham.co.uk

Copy Schelay McCarter fashiontent Ltd

Photography Steve Turvey –please credit

 

LFW A/W 13 Day 2 The Bernard Chandran Collection

Chandran successfully navigated the difficult task of fusing a multitude of styles and techniques to create a truly unique and stunning collection

Bernard Chandran

Bernard Chandran show

Despite the show space at the Freemasons' Hall being completely jam-packed, people were still queuing all the way down the street trying to get into the Bernard Chandran show. For those lucky enough to get in, the AW13 collection from the Malaysian designer didn't disappoint. In a welcome change from the collections dominated by blacks, greys and browns, Chandran's angular silhouettes came alive in gorgeous jewel tones, shimmering prints and delicate beading. 

The audience was captivated from the moment the lights went down and the Whistle song from Kill Bill set the mood. It was a fast paced collection, with a lot going on; Chandran certainly showed what an accomplished designer he is. The collection moved from muted tones of navy blue and black, punctuated with bold splashes of orange, to shimmering, galaxy-esque prints, to graphic prints in chocolate brown and cream. The silhouettes also varied from the simple and traditional, to more angular, unusual and modern. Despite the variation in style, the overriding theme that came through was that this was a collection for those who want to make a statement - beautiful clothes for beautiful women. 

Standout pieces for me were a metallic, knee length coat with a belted waist, the cropped jacket in a chocolate graphic print, an orange roll neck dress with beading on the skirt and a shimmering printed dress in blue and white. There was also a beautiful beaded black dress that appeared to have a cape attached to it that made for an unusual twist on the classic LBD. 

Quite simply, Chandran successfully navigated the difficult task of fusing a multitude of styles and techniques to create a truly unique and stunning collection. 

Copy by Sophie Hollins fashiontent's girl about town

Photography Michael Harvey for Fashiontent and LESDOIT