Thursday, 5 January 2012

Ethics focus on British luxury fashion Brands - Mulberry & Burberry




I really like everything about Christopher Bailey's design leadership at Burberry and Mulberry's brilliant rise in fashion status however British high end luxury brands such as Burberry can afford to bring back 'some' or maybe all of their manufacturing into the UK. 
'Made in the UK' carries huge cache for Far Eastern, South American and Asian customers. There is a Burberry trench coat factory in Castleford West Yorkshire apparently that  has recently doubled is it's productivity due to demand but this is a drop in the ocean on overall Burberry garment output volume wise.  The UK needs to rebuild it's manufacturing base again if it is to pull itself out of the down turn long term.  
Quality is not always guaranteed by shifting to Chinese factories. Burberry has taken a quality hit because of this in my opinion. A huge mistake was made closing down the Welsh factory. Mulberry has a factory in Bath but there has been some controversy over the fact that Turkey ( the home of the counterfeit brand in the 1990s ) has been used for some of the collection in the past. Mulberry is way ahead of many other British brands by having some of it's manufacturing here in the UK at least.
Agreed that these brands are having to compete with fashion giants such as the LVMH and PPR group however their Britishness is being diluted by their manufacturing choices. 
Also customers paying top dollar expect quality and with that there should be good after care service. Good design should last more than one season. 
The throw away mentality of pre recession times will become a thing of the past. Barbour still offers a repair service. Attitudes need to change to reflect the times we are now living in. 
Our British heritage is the last of the family silver we have left to capitalise on frankly and we are in a perfect position now with the luxury goods market high margins to make the most of it. A Burberry trench coat costs £2,395.00, and this is perceived as a good price by far Eastern and South American visitors to our Island.

The British Luxury goods market is defying the down turn and is expected to grow by 57% in the next 5 years making it worth 9.4 billion by 2015.


Saving Skills
British heritage Luxury goods companies in particular Burberry are making huge profits - some of this money could be channelled into investing in skill development  and apprenticeships encouraging manufacturing and production back in the UK for the long term. Mulberry and Burberry are in a unique position to be able to lead by example. 


Check out the 'Out of Exile' brand where all the production is done in Kent.  http://www.outofxile.co.uk/OOX_Autumn_2011/About_Out_of_Xile.html

Who is to blame historically : In part accountants who look at the bottom line and put pressure on businesses to go for higher short term profits. 

Brand integrity is key for business success. Customers are no longer interested in the superficial - when they buy into a brand they are buying other elements that make up the DNA of their aspirations and that in todays world is seeing that the short termism of greed and profligacy is eradicated. People will increasingly seek to make statements with their purchase choices.



John Lewis has shown an astute understanding of this trend as evidenced by it's buoyant Christmas profits. It is a company where the employees are all partners and have a share in the profits when times are good. The CEO is paid well but nothing astronomically more than the shop floor sales person and no where near that of other retail sector CEOs. John Lewis has no problem attracting the very best candidates for top jobs.
The brilliant advertising campaign sums up the new mood - it struck a chord over Christmas. 
Greed and self service is not derigueur - doing the right thing is. Those who do will win. 


What do you think - ? 


by Schelay McCarter


Tuesday, 20 December 2011

Lanvin Film staring 'dancing' Raquel Zimmermann and Karen Elson




We are living in a time where dance is de rigueur whether it be a watching Strictly come Dancing winner Harry Judd the Drummer from rock band McFly Waltz, Rumba or Jive - or going to dance lessons yourself! demand here has sky rocketed apparently.
Ratings for 'Strictly' were an astonishing 14,000.000! surpassing the X Factor by miles....The whole family across generations has been sucked into the Strictly come Dancing bug....The BBC must be thrilled.....It was reported in the press that Kate Moss is a huge fan of Strictly and held a final nights party at her house to watch it on the telly. I suspect she would love to have a go....It would be a good move for her as she won't want to model for ever and a career deviation onto main stream TV would give her image an approachability it lacks at the moment. Watch this space....
Dancing makes one feel good as well as get fit - 'Zumba' created by dancer and choreographer Alberto "Beto" Perez in Colombia during the 1990s, is also a barometer of the dance craze trend we are experiencing here in the UK.
Fashion has picked up on this - Prada as usual was ahead of the game and released a fabulous Josephine Baker inspired dance brand film for S/S2010, I posted a review at the time - click here to see it again.http://schelay.blogspot.com/2011/06/prada-summer-windows-milan-josephine.htmlI
Interesting that we have seen Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Ralph lauren, Philosophy and Marchesa picking up on the 1920s flapper trend Prada launched last S/S2010 
Carey Mulligan beat Scarlett Johansen to get the role of Daisy Buchanan in the remake of F Scott Fitzgerald's classic book The Great Gatsby about the decadent lifestyle of America's idle rich before the 1930s wall street crash and subsequent great depression....  can't wait to see it.....
I love this Lanvin film above - the models look great if not a little out of sequence - I would give them an 8 /10 if I were marking! and 10/10 for looking cool.

Monday, 12 December 2011

Jean Seberg, Mia, Carey Mulligan, Michelle Williams short hair a great look for 2012

Michelle Williams looks fabulous with short hair 

Carey Mulligan doing an Edie Sedgwick impersonation, short hair suits her so well.





chic with short hair Edie Sedgwick in her Velvet Under Ground Days
Mia Farrow led the way in the late 60s with her ground breaking androgynous, sexy short cut

Carey with her beat nik bob, cute
new cover shot out now of Carey, looks fab, her hair styled off her face looks demure and grown up!


Jean Seberg with a wonderful short cut, if you have good eyes go for it. There is a likeness with Carey n'est-ce pas?

It is all in the bone structure and a long neck helps
I would like to see more short hair on the catwalk and in fashion marketing The fact is that there are only a few really amazing models who can do short hair and carry it off. In the battle of the brands those who stand out get noticed, using a short haired model would do this perfectly. It would be especially cool to see this look at Marc Jacobs or Miu Miu.

Thursday, 8 December 2011

Prada 'Trembled Blossom' film - iconic and timeless



This is a very important fashion film - Iconic and timeless, it was one of the first presented by a major fashion brand in order to utilise the digital potential for advertising to a growing user savvy audience. Prada lead the way in 2009 maximising on the advertising revolution predicting that it is still ever growing in creative importance as consumers continue to increase their commitment to buying online. It still blows me away, one is transported into an extraordinary and seductive Prada world reflecting the creative direction of that particular collection.

Pringle Film by Ryan McGinley with Tilda Swinton



A ground breaking fashion film staring the enigmatic talent of Pringle muse Tilda Swinton.....
Directed by Ryan McGinley. 

Monday, 5 December 2011

Rosie Huntington Whiteley in a hat......


Hats worn the right way look so cool. Here away from her usual Victoria Secrets look Rosie's intelligence shines through -  in a similar way to the look of Jean Shrimpton in the 60s - shame she is not used more this way. 

I want this dress! - Jean Shrimpton's hat sets off the image perfectly


Anita Pallenberg in wide brimmed hat looks great even with her hair tied back!
a great 70s look here.


Jean Shrimpton - face of the 60s that never dates....



Jean Shrimpton was at the epicentre of cool London in the 1960s, I would love to know what she thinks about the new film made by BBC4 called 'We'll take Manhatten' coming out soon about the relationship she had with David Bailey. Karen Gillan plays Shrimpton and Aneurin Barnard plays Bailey. To find out more to do with this influential era watch Antonioni's film 'Blow - up' made in the 1960s about David Bailey. David Bailey has become to fashion photography what Paul McCartney is to pop music.