Worthy of Burberry Ashley Isham's coats & jackets were the highlight of the collection for me ! |
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The Glamourous Freemasons hall in Covent Garden was the catwalk venue for this sophisticated collection |
Autumn Winter 2013 -14
The Freemason’s Hall was
sizzling with anticipation as well as bursting at the seams with eager
fashionisters hungry for their latest fashion fix in the form of the Ashley
Isham Autumn Winter 13/14 Collection. I have been fortunate enough to be in a
position to review his work objectively having seen Ashley’s work for the past
5 seasons.
This collection is without
doubt his most sophisticated. He has developed a greater understanding of the
Winter wardrobe needs of the Ashley Isham woman.
I loved the strong silhouette coats, jackets and capes inspired by a 1976 movie called “Logan's Run” and by the wonderfully
thought provoking images of Helmut Newton. Helmut
Newton was a German photographer whose images are provocative and
erotically charged. This thread continued with the wonderful Isham signature
drapery that has become epitomous with his work.
The collection has a sleek
constructed quality that is glamorously futuristic for a woman who dares to be
different with asymmetrical lines that have the deconstruct aspects of
tailoring which is still precise. The pockets in skirts and dresses brings
reality that reflects urban chic
The inspirational journey
through Helmut Newton's erotically charged black and white photos translate to
glamorous unconventional tailoring for daywear with hand embroidered epaulets
that is body loving. There is an inky sheen to the luxurious wool
that is modern yet feminine while drawing particular attention to the fifties
couture silhouettes.
The stricking eveningwear
is long, lean evening columns that surrendered to the translucence of porcelain
under light to guarantee vigour and movement. The elaborate embroideries are so
delicate that the beading appears almost invisible. It’s an ode to delicateness
and luxury, this time rendered in tone on tone or silvery embroideries on lace
and tulle of varying transparencies, hand crafted with a bespoke feel.
Ashley Isham uses exquisite
materials such as; lace, guipure, lycra jersey, opulent velvet jersey, silk
organza, silk chiffon, silk satin and cotton sateen.
Recognized for his signature
draping and razor cut tailoring, Ashley Isham's distinctive blend of
high-octane glamour and contemporary chic has won him an army of followers
devoted to his vision and design philosophy.
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Schelay McCarter fashiontent Ltd
Photography
Steve Turvey –please credit